We had such a wonderful time during our first week in Scotland that I couldn’t wait to see what the next part of the holiday would bring.
Bidding a fond farewell to our little cottage in Golspie, we headed off for the west coast, where I looked forward to seeing a Heilan Coo or two.
There were a few little detours on the way, first to Black Isle Brewery, where we bought some of their organic beer. Scotland is dotted with small breweries and distilleries and even though my tipple of choice is a dogguccino, it would have been rude not to visit.
Driving on, we came to Rogie Falls and had a nice stroll through woods until we arrived at scenic waterfalls where if you’re lucky, you can see the salmon leaping. They were fairly invisible when we arrived but it was really pretty and well worth the visit.
It was a long drive to the coast and for most of the time we were on those funny roads with room for only one car. I dozed for the journey but woke in time to admire the scenery, which was even more rugged than before.
Unfortunately, disappointment awaited us when we reached Lochcarron, where we were due to stay. We booked the house through Airbnb but we discovered that the back patio could only be reached up two narrow and slippery sets of stairs and the whole back of the house was covered with weeds. I wasn’t impressed and between us, we decided we couldn’t stay.
Of course, accommodation isn’t easy to find at short notice so after a confab in the car, where I howled my views, we hit on a plan to stay in Edinburgh. A quick call to our friends at Malmaison gave us a room for the night and we’d see what we’d do after that.
We, or more correctly, himself, now had a long drive ahead, so a break was called for. The nearby Lochcarron Bistro was well reviewed and just about to open. Even though they weren’t quite ready to serve food, Jagoda, the lovely waitress welcomed us and promised to feed us as soon as they could. We told her of our troubles and she promised us that the food would leave us with some happy memories of Lochcarron and maybe tempt us back.
Well, when the menu came it made my mouth water and although the plan was just to have a main course, starters of scallops and fish cakes couldn’t be passed over. The mains were local venison and the aromas from that and the chicken pasta dish were driving me mad. I just had my usual boring food under the table. Sometimes it’s hard to be a dog.
Suitably refreshed, himself drove nearly five hours to Edinburgh with only one stop for diesel. That’s why he’s my driver, but I can’t praise him too much or he’ll be looking for a raise.
Edinburgh
Our room at Malmaison was beautiful but Edinburgh itself could be more dog friendly. We looked everywhere for a little bit of grass for me to do my business but every green was locked for the night. Even the following morning, we found that dogs weren’t allowed on the big green square beside the hotel. Edinburgh, you can do better than that. I’ll start a campawaign.
The reception I got at the hotel more than made up for it though. Without exception, I was welcomed with open arms and Cal even asked me to pose for their social media channels. A media personality like myself is always glad to lend a paw. Find me on Insta @daisymaygalvin.
We didn’t set off too early on Sunday, giving himself a well deserved lie-in but eventually I had to headbutt him out of the bed.
After a quick walk around Edinburgh to get our bearings we made our way to the Royal Mile, the city’s most famous street. It’s actually longer than a mile and runs all the way from the castle on the hill down to Holyrood Palace. It was a long walk right up to the top, let me tell you, especially with my little legs.
We just caught the end of the Edinburgh Fringe, so there were loads of buskers and performers on the streets. I don’t think they appreciated my howls as I joined in. Maybe next time I’ll look up the lyrics.
Peckish around lunchtime we spotted the St Giles Café and Bar and what a find it turned out to be. It’s gloriously old-fashioned inside and they’re very dog friendly. A cheese plate and wine was the order of the day and the two couldn’t resist a chocolately thing to go along with my dogguccino. It was such a nice place to eat.
The one place I wanted to visit when I barked for Edinburgh back in Lochcarron, was the grave of Greyfriars Bobby. Bobby was a little dog who lived in Edinburgh in the 1800s and when his master died, he spent the next 14 years of his life at the graveside, never leaving until his own death. What loyalty. Bobby is buried just inside Greyfriars Kirkyard, surrounded by colourful flowers and sticks left as gifts for Bobby. It’s a really peaceful place to visit, particularly early in the morning before the crowds arrive. Outside the churchyard is the main statue to Bobby and people touch his nose for luck. As a result, his nose is all shiny and worn away and in fact, he’s on his fourth nose. Poor Bobby.
It’s a sad story but a beautiful one too and it’s nice that Bobby is remembered to this day.
On a whim, we jumped on one of the tourist buses to see the rest of the sights and in fact, went around almost twice as we used it for a lift back to our hotel. The commentaries from both Tom and Scott were fascinating and they made sure I was comfortable and looked after. We had a great overview of the city from our seat on the top deck and I waved happily out the window at all the nice people on the streets below.
Tired after another long day, we ate at the hotel that night and decided to stay on in Edinburgh for another night or two to see more of this lovely city.
We weren’t too tired to go out after dinner to take a few pictures around some of the quaint lane ways and streets before we headed back for a well deserved rest.
The next morning found us out bright and early to take more pictures in Greyfriars Church yard and at the statue and it wasn’t long before I was surrounded by a fan club of people wanting to take my photo. It’s hard sometimes being a superstar. I wonder how many instagram accounts I’m going to appear on. #daisysupawstar.
It was surprisingly rare to see a Westie in Scotland. I only met five over the entire trip and one Scottie. I hope I gave those people nice memories from their Scottish holidays.
We were disappointed by Edinburgh Castle. Dogs aren’t even allowed into the grounds so there was no prospect of visiting or even taking pictures. The city really could be more welcoming to us doggies. I’m really going to have to start that campaign.
Fife
Instead, we headed off in the car to Fife, a coastal area north of the city. Rosemary, Mac’s mammy, told us it was a beautiful area of the country and so it proved to be. My boyfriend Mac loves it too and he told me where to visit.
We started our tour in St Andrew’s, a fairly decent sized town with its own university and home to the famous golf links. It’s even where a certain Wills and Kate went to university. I’ve visited his grandmother’s house in London so it’s like we’re family.
The streets were dotted with beautiful shops and restaurants and there was an easy atmosphere to the place. I sniffed the air and discovered a nice eatery in a little yard off the main street. Jarvie’s is a tea room/café with an array of gorgeous looking cakes but being lunchtime, while herself chose soup, himself spotted the ploughman’s lunch on the menu and if you saw the plate that came out, your eyes would bulge. My eyes certainly did. Huge chunks of soda bread, lovely cheddar cheese, onions and chutneys and I don’t know what else. There was enough to feed an army and he was well pleased.
Continuing to walk around we visited one of the university campuses where I pretended to be a student and kept my paws off the grass. I really liked the town and they even had a castle by the sea where I posed for a few photos, looking windswept and interesting.
Crail was our next stop and we found the Harbour Bar Gallery and Tearoom. They had a little terrace looking out over the bay and it reminded me so much of when I visited Clovelly in Cornwall a few years ago. We sat munching panini in the glorious sunshine overlooking the sparkling waters of the bay. Glorious.
After eating, I posed at the harbour in my Scottish AG Dog Fashion Dress. The tartan was chosen after chatting with Bev, my co-author. Herself’s mother’s maiden name was Murray so we went for a Murray tartan to remember Eimer. I felt very honoured.
The wind was so strong that it blew my kilt into the air and I did my very own impression of Marilyn Monroe. Modesty forbids me telling you what I wore under my kilt. No true Scot will ever reveal that secret and I’m a true Scottish Westie.
To finish our short visit to Fife, we drove on to the larger town of Anstruther where I visited my friends at the RNLI station and bought a dog bowl as those silly hoomans had left my bowl at the hotel. A girl has to eat, after all, especially after all my posing.
The road haim – you see, I’m getting the accent!
The next morning we bid a fond farewell to our new friends at Malmaison and started the trek south for the ferry, but of course we had a few stops along the way.
Our first was The Kelpies, two huge 30m high sculptures of horses’ heads, made of stainless steel. They’re very impressive although when I tried to strike up a conversation, they were strangely silent. Maybe I caught them in a bad mood or they were a little hoarse. They’re in a beautiful park with a canal nearby and although they’re sited right by a motorway, it’s a very peaceful place to visit.
Our next stop was definitely one for himself – The Falkirk Wheel. It’s a kind of massive ferris wheel for boats, to allow them to go from one canal to the other, 35m above. Before the wheel was built, they would have to go through 44 lock gates and it took all day. I’ve seen the size of the locks and I’m wondering how big is the key?
The wheel now whisks the boats from canal to canal in only a few minutes and it only takes the same energy as it takes to boil eight kettles. It’s really rather impressive.
And so, after a last overnight near the ferry, our Scottish odyssey finished with another voyage to Belfast in the company of more friendly doggies in Stena Lines’ Pet Lounge. I’ve decided this is the only way to travel from now on. As Oscar Wilde once said, “I’m easily satisfied by the very best.”
Arriving in Belfast, we still needed to eat though and after some debate, himself remembered a place he’d visited before. Strandfield, just outside Dundalk, is vegetarian but they serve beautiful food and cakes. There was a special pizza with goats’ cheese and fig jam and the two went for it and judging by the cleared plates, I reckon they loved it. I was welcomed into the café but there are plenty of outdoor, covered dining spots too. A real find.
It was a tired doggie who finally arrived in Ennis later that evening. I went straight to sleep, dreaming of my Scottish adventures and chasing after haggis. I’m convinced they’re little animals after all. Och Aye!
Luv Daisy
The first part of my Scottish adventures can be read here.
